Artmania, 26-27.07.19, Large Square Sibiu

Another Artmania has ended. I’ve said it before, I simply can’t get enough of this festival and I have a lot of respect for the way the organisers handle it year after year. Yes, there were bigger lines than usual this time. Yes, at some point it took 30 minutes to buy a beer and we completely abandoned the idea of food once we realised the time it required. But at the same time there was plenty of space inside the square (no cramming people like cattle to oversell tickets), the sound was impeccable, there were toilet paper and huge sanitiser bottles at the toilet and they made an impromptu token line in a corner because the waiting time was too big.  

Additionally, this edition delighted us with many side activities, like live shows in the Small Square, movie screenings, conferences and, the best of all, a workshop on Nordic instruments with Einar from Warduna. It’s always a joy to go to Sibiu and to have such a long-lasting festival that hasn’t compromised its quality and that I can support full-heartedly. But the best part this year was the line-up. Sadly Myrkur had to cancel due to her pregnancy (and I was expecting her like a breath of fresh air), but everything else was top notch.

Day 1 started with Fjørt, which was the only band of the festival that I couldn’t get into. They were definitely not my cup of tea and I just waited to pass the time, plastered on the ground while my husband was standing in the huge token line.

Next up were Warduna, one of the bands I was most anxious for. Like probably everyone else, I got to know them through Vikings and they opened the door to a whole new world of traditional Nordic folk music. It was great seeing them live and watching (and hearing) all the unusual instruments they use. Even though a hot summer day wasn’t the best for getting in the sort of mood they were trying to convey, it didn’t take long for me to go to my happy place and into my own world populated by cold forests and trance-inducing music. They had a wonderful reception from the crowd and seemed genuinely satisfied by it, which in turn made me very glad as well because I know they don’t play live too often and they’re not exactly a conventional band.

Architects pulled a 180 from Warduna’s calm mesmerising music and for the first time I witnessed crowd surfing and a circle pit at the otherwise tame and almost intellectual Artmania. They were an infusion of energy and I had a lot of fun with them. A very sweet moment came when the lead singer informed us that his best (and idiot) friend is a puppy he adopted from Romania and encouraged everyone to adopt dogs because of all the joy they bring to one’s life. It was such an unexpectedly adorable declaration from someone who just roared his lungs in the mic for an hour, and it also happened to be a very elegant way of smoothing over some technical difficulties they were experiencing.

Finally, the crown of the evening, Dream Theater. I’m not even sure where to begin. Maybe with one of our friends’ comment that you can’t even headbang properly on DT because they change the rhythm too often. Or with another audience member complaining they are too perfect. It was a display of the utmost technicality, tied together by LaBrie’s warm voice and even warmer stage presence. It was so nice to hear them say that even though they’ve been playing for over 30 years, they still don’t take their adoring audience for granted and they love what they’re doing. And you could tell it’s true, amidst the showmanship and the overwhelming display of talent and hard work, there were modesty, kindness and a genuine joy to sing.

On Day 2, the first stop was Mobius. A stop we managed to completely miss, unfortunately. The most I can say about them was that they sounded really good during the sound check, so I can imagine they had a good show.

Alcest was another of the… shall I say weaker moments? They weren’t bad, I didn’t experience the complete boredom and detachment I had with Fjørt, but I still didn’t feel much either. The rest of the audience seemed pleased, so again I’m guessing it’s more a matter of taste. I just couldn’t get “the hook”.

Madrugada on the other hand were a completely different story. Which is interesting, considering they had a similar mellow otherworldly vibe. But where Alcest were bland, Madrugada were dreamy and full of emotion. Again, a funny word to describe a band that draws its inspiration from British rock bands like R.E.M. But full of heart they were, with a mellow melancholic vibe that bewitched and transported me to another world. They were one of the acts I was looking forward to and they didn’t disappoint in the slightest, I enjoyed them very much.

If Dream Theater were the crown of the first day, Opeth were the crown of the festival. One of my most beloved bands, they were obviously the ones I was most excited about. And after witnessing their sound check and seeing how kind they were to the fans, humorously telling the dozens of people cheering them in front of the stage they haven’t started yet and then throwing picks and drum sticks, I was all the more enthusiastic. Judging by the heated reception and the number of Opeth t-shirts, I wasn’t the only one who saw them as the highlight.

And it was amazing! The setlist was top notch, they played a song from each of their past 8 albums, effortlessly alternating between the heaviness of Ghost of perdition and the etherealness of Cusp of eternity. Mikael was incredible, both vocally and with his stage presence. He is a true entertainer, making the audience laugh with his stories about the axe man or his friendly teases of the guys from Dream Theater. For 1 hour and 15 minutes I was in my dream world. The music was perfect, the interpretation was perfect, the atmosphere was perfect… the only imperfect thing was that it ended. Because of the axe man, of course. I loved how Mikael explained their passion for music with “It’s incredible that we make music we love in Stockholm and we come here in Sibiu and you also love the music that we make”. Or something along those lines.

And it’s so nice to see music transcending borders, culture, age and all the other differences and tying us together in the middle of a giant medieval square, shoulder to shoulder, cheering and singing together. To me this is what music and live shows are about, it’s a wonderful feeling that can’t be put into words, you just have to be there. Artmania is one of the best places to experience it